Friday, September 23, 2011

Don't Eat The Daisies!

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Many of the plants in our homes and gardens can make your pet quite sick if ingested, and many can even be fatal. If your dogs are like mine, they like to “graze”. They nibble on grass and leaves all the time. It doesn’t make them sick, they just seem to like to eat it. My youngest beagle, who chews on everything, will take the leaves off anything that looks appealing to him at the time. While most of the time it’s just an annoying habit, in many cases it could be dangerous or life-threatening.

It is important to know the plants in your home and garden, and any possible dangers they may pose for your pets or your children. You don’t have to get rid of the plant(s), just make sure your pets can’t get to them.

There are hundreds of plants that range from mildly toxic to quite deadly. Symptoms can range from mild gastrointestinal irritation to sudden death. Some toxins will have only a temporary effect, while others can cause permanent damage.

I will list some of the most common toxic plants your pet may come in contact with, with special note of the most deadly ones. This list is in no way comprehensive. All information is from the ASPCA Poison Control site, and the Humane Society of the United States site. I will include links at the end so you may get the complete and detailed lists they have posted.

Let’s start with some of the most toxic:

Nightshade (belladonna): All parts of the plant are considered extremely poisonous, with the roots being the most toxic. This plant contains atropine, which acts to block nerve transmissions between the brain and vital organs such as the heart and lungs. Symptoms include dilated pupils, irregular heartbeat, aggression, stupor, loss of vision, paralysis, sever shaking of rear legs, weak pulse, bloat, stumbling, rapid breathing, paling of skin followed by a red rash, intense urges to swallow, severe intestinal disturbances, skin may dry and peel off, coma, or death. Fatal levels of this toxin can be ingested from as little as a few berries to a single leaf. This is a fairly common weed which I have found growing in my own yard.

Yew (taxus): Yews are an ornamental shrub that are common in many home landscapes. All parts of the plant are poisonous. It can affect the nervous system, causing weakness, trembling and breathing difficulties. It can also cause gastrointestinal upset, cardiac failure, and even sudden death. Even very small amounts can be fatal.

Poison Hemlock: This is not the evergreen hemlock tree. This one is a tall perennial plant. All parts of this plant are toxic. Symptoms of poisoning include dilated pupils, frothing at the mouth, muscle spasms, restlessness, convulsions, and sudden death.

Azalea: All parts are toxic, leaves in particular. Symptoms include drooling, diarrhea, vomiting, weakness, depression, abnormal heart rate and rhythm, convulsions, coma, or death.

English Ivy: Leaves and berries are toxic. Symptoms include gastrointestinal irritation, diarrhea, breathing difficulties, coma, or death.

Castor Bean: All parts are toxic, seeds in particular. The toxin in this plant is ricin, an extremely toxic substance that has been used in chemical warfare. Symptoms of poisoning include abdominal pain, drooling, diarrhea, vomiting, excessive thirst, weakness, tremors, dehydration, seizures, muscle twitching, coma, or death. Only a tiny amount can be fatal, with death occurring within 36 hours of ingestion.

JimsonWeed All parts are toxic. Symptoms include rapid pulse, rapid breathing, dilated pupils, restlessness, nervousness, twitching, frequent urination, diarrhea, depression, weight loss, weak pulse, convulsions, coma, or death.

Sago Palm: All parts are toxic, seeds in particular. Symptoms include diarrhea, vomiting, depression, seizures, and liver failure.

Johnson Grass: Leaves and stems are toxic, particularly in young plants. Symptoms include breathing problems, severe anxiety, convulsions, coma, or death. There is an intravenous antidote for this one if caught in time.

Lantana: Leaves and berries are toxic. Symptoms include sluggishness, weakness, bloody diarrhea, and in severe cases, death may occur in 2 to 4 days.

Foxglove (digitalis): All parts of this plant are toxic. The chemical toxin is digitoxin, which is used to make the heart medicine Digitalis. Ingestion of this plant will initially cause nausea and vomiting. Serious symptoms include diarrhea, anorexia, low pulse rate, visual disturbances, confusion, cardiac arrhythmias (irregular heartbeat), cardiac arrest, and death. This toxin mostly affects the heart, causing it to become overburdened and eventually stop.

Cyclamen: All parts are toxic, roots in particular. Symptoms include severe vomiting, gastrointestinal inflammation, or death.

Kalanchoe: All parts are toxic. The toxin in this plant affects the central nervous system and the heart. Symptoms include vomiting, diarrhea, increased heart rate, or irregular heartbeat.

Lilies: Plants of the lilium variety are highly toxic to cats in particular. Ingesting even very small amounts can cause serious kidney damage.

Tulips / narcissus: The bulbs are toxic. Symptoms include drooling, gastrointestinal irritation, loss of appetite, depression of the central nervous system, convulsions, and cardiac abnormalities.


Oleander:
All parts of this plant toxic, primarily affecting the heart. Symptoms include gastrointestinal irritation, hypothermia, abnormal heart function, or death.

Autumn Crocus (colchicum): Symptoms of ingestion include oral irritation, bloody vomiting, diarrhea, shock, multi-organ damage, and bone marrow suppression.

Glory Lily (gloriosa): This plant contains the toxin colchicine, which is comparable to arsenic in its effects. Initial symptoms include irritation of the mouth and throat, vomiting with or without blood, diarrhea, and abdominal pain. These symptoms occur within the first 2 to 5 hours. During the next 24 to 72 hours, life threatening symptoms may occur. These symptoms include irregular heartbeat, heart failure, respiratory distress, suppression of bone marrow, kidney failure, and muscle weakness. These symptoms may last from 3 to 7 days, with death resulting from respiratory failure.

These are some of the more toxic plants you may find in your home, garden or yard.

A few other plants that are toxic to varying degrees include:

Amaryllis, Bird of Paradise, Philodendron, Mistletoe, Poinsettia, Jerusalem Cherry, Iris, Lily of the Valley, Bittersweet, Clematis, Pothos, Gladiolas, Hydrangea, Mandrake, Morning Glory, Pokeweed, Amaranthus, Rhubarb, Daffodils, and Dieffenbachia.

This is by no means a complete list. For a more comprehensive list of toxic plants, symptoms, and treatments, check out some of the following links:

ASPCA: Toxic and Non-Toxic Plants

HSUS: Plants Potentially Poisonous to Pets





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Thursday, September 15, 2011

10 Essential Vitamins and Minerals for Dogs

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The following article was submitted to me from the Vitamins and Minerals.net website, and I thought it was worth passing along.

10 Essential Vitamins and Minerals for Dogs

Although dogs and cats love to eat each other’s food, their nutritional needs are very different. They each would be able to survive, but soon would develop health problems. A dog’s nutritional requirements are more similar to humans since they are omnivorous and not carnivorous like cats. They get their nutrients from both animals and plants in their food and you should make sure they are getting enough of these essential vitamins and minerals.

  1. Vitamin A – Dogs need vitamin A for good vision and a strong immune system. Since it’s a fat soluble vitamin and stored in your dog’s body fat, you should be careful not to overdose.
  2. Vitamin D – This essential vitamin is important for strong bones and muscles in your dog. It’s also fat soluble, so take care not to give your dog too much vitamin D.
  3. Vitamin B1 – The B vitamins are all water soluble, so any excess will be flushed out in your dog’s urine. Your dog needs vitamin B1 or thiamin for high energy and carbohydrate metabolism.
  4. Vitamin B6 – Dogs also need vitamin B6 for healthy blood, nervous and immune systems. A deficiency of this essential nutrient can cause weight loss, muscle twitching and anemia.
  5. Vitamin B12 – Along with other B vitamins like niacin and riboflavin, vitamin B12 is necessary for enzyme functions in your dog. A loss of appetite, low white blood cells and anemia can be signs of a B12 deficiency.
  6. Calcium – All dogs need calcium for strong bones and teeth plus a healthy nervous system and blood coagulation. A lack of this mineral in your dog’s diet can cause major skeletal abnormalities.
  7. Copper – An unusual mineral, copper is important for a dog’s proper formation of bone, tissue and cells. Loss of hair pigmentation can mean your puppy isn’t getting enough copper in his diet.
  8. Iron – Canines need iron for the proper function of red blood cells that transport oxygen in their bodies. If your dog is lethargic and weak, he may not be getting enough iron.
  9. Iodine – Your dog needs this mineral for healthy thyroid function and proper metabolism. Enlargement of thyroid glands, dry, sparse hair coat, and weight gain are signs your dog isn’t getting enough iodine.
  10. Zinc – This mineral is important for your dog maintaining healthy hair and skin. A lack of zinc in his diet can cause poor weight gain, vomiting and skin lesions.
Most people love having dogs for pets and they also can be trained to be very useful to law enforcement and the disabled. They are devoted companions with unconditional love for their owners. Make sure your dog is getting proper nutrition from his dog food and supplement his diet for any deficiencies. Ensure your best friend is getting the essential vitamins and minerals to live a long, healthy, happy life.

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Thursday, August 18, 2011

I have more pet rescue stickers!

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I have a stack of pet rescue window stickers that I got from the ASPCA. If you would like one, please email me with your name and address and I will be happy to mail you one at no charge.

I think these are great to have for police, fire, or other emergency personnel to let them know there are pets in the home.

Limit 2 per address, please.

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Friday, August 5, 2011

I'm barking, but maybe I CAN shut up!

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What do you do when your dog truly is “barking and he can’t shut up”? I have stated before that you cannot expect a dog never to bark. That is like asking a small child not to talk. Like any behavior, though, there should be limits and controls.

A dog that barks excessively can be annoying to not only you, but to neighbors as well. This can lead to complaints, and is one of the reasons a lot of dogs end up at shelters. The behavior can be corrected, though. Solving a barking problem takes time and effort, not to mention patience and understanding. It can be frustrating and difficult at times.

In one of my recent articles, we learned that there are many reasons why a dog barks. If possible, determine why your dog is barking. Are there particular situations where he barks excessively? Are there particular locations? Particular people or objects he likes to bark at? Or does he seem to be just barking at air? If you can figure out what it is that triggers the excessive barking, you can begin to work to correct the problem.

Let me start by saying what NEVER to do. Never yell at your dog to stop barking. Trust me, it doesn’t work. Yelling actually encourages your dog to bark more since he thinks you are “joining in”. I have a hard time with this one myself. With most of us, our first reaction to non-stop barking is to yell “SHUT UP” at the offender…..who looks at you, wiggles happily because he thinks you’re barking, too, and just barks even more. Besides, barking gets your attention, which is typically what your dog is looking for. He barks, you pay attention to him. So he barks more. ARGH! Take a deep breath, count to ten…..then we can start to work on the issue.

NEVER hit, spank or beat your dog for barking. Yes, I know…but there are people out there who still try to use those methods of brute force in dog training. You will do nothing but create fear in your dog. Your dog will learn to stop barking when it sees you to avoid being hit, but will more than likely start barking again as soon as you are gone. Remember, negative attention is still attention. For a needy or bored dog, any attention will do in a pinch.

“Shut up” doesn’t mean anything to a dog. You are speaking a foreign language to him. One method that seems to be effective is teaching your dog the word “quiet”. While your dog is barking, do not shout. Simply say “quiet” in a calm but firm voice. When your dog stops barking (and he will eventually, even if it’s just to catch his breath), tell him “good dog” and give him a treat or pat on the head, repeating the word quiet. Never offer him the treat or pat while he is barking. The dog will eventually figure out that when he stops barking at the word “quiet”, he gets a treat. You can add a hand signal of putting a finger to your lips after saying the word. Many dogs seem to learn more quickly from hand signals than words alone.

If your dog is outside and barking non-stop, don’t just let him in the house. All that does is teach the dog that barking will get him what he wants (in this case, back in the house). The same is true for dogs that bark to be let out of their crate, or bark because they want you to feed them or give them a treat. If you give in and do what they want you to do (which is hard not to do when you just want them to shut up and leave you alone for while), the dog has essentially trained YOU. Good owner! Good!

One way to help stop your dog from barking for attention is to simply ignore your dog. Your dog will no doubt become frustrated and bark a whole lot initially, but once he realizes that it is not getting him anywhere, he will stop. Warning - this training method can be hard on the ears for a while! Ignoring your loudly barking pup may make you want to run screaming from the room, or threaten to glue your dog’s lips together (which I admit to saying to my pups in the past). Remember that if a dog's behavior is not rewarded and reinforced, he will eventually figure out that it doesn’t work and will, hopefully, stop or greatly reduce the behavior. Remember, though, the key word here is EVENTUALLY. It takes time and lots of patience to do this method.

Being alone all day, whether in the house or outside, is BORING. Many dogs will bark constantly out of boredom. A lot of people, myself included, leave the TV or a radio on for their pups. This gives them some semblance of normalcy (since the TV is most likely on when you are home), and it can also mask some outside noises that may trigger more barking.

Dogs are intelligent and social creatures. For dogs that are alone for long periods of time, make sure they have something to do. Treat or food-filled toys are available that will keep your dog occupied. Provide safe toys and chews for your dog to play with while you are gone. If possible, have a friend or family member stop by and let the dog out to play for a short time during the day. There are even doggie daycare centers for people who don’t want their pups left alone all day.

A tired dog is a quiet dog, as a rule. Make sure your dog gets plenty of exercise. Exercise relieves stress, and will make your dog want to nap when he is done playing. Try to play with your dog or walk him before you leave for work or any time you will be gone for more than an hour or two.

Many dogs will launch into a barking frenzy when you get home. It doesn’t seem to matter if you’ve been gone 10 minutes or 10 hours. They are still so excited to see you that they can’t stop barking. This is relatively easy to fix, but again requires the patience of a saint at times. When you get home and your dog starts his frenzied “welcome home” barking, IGNORE him. Any attention you give him while he is barking just reinforces the behavior since he is getting exactly what he wants….your attention. Avoid even making eye contact with your dog if possible. Once he finally settles down, and he will eventually, then go to him and pet and praise him for being a good dog and sitting quietly.

It may also help to alter our behavior when we leave the house as well. If we make a big deal out of leaving, fussing over our poor pup for having to stay home by himself, your dog will pick up on your anxiety and the change in your mood. He will learn to associate your tone of voice and words with the fact that he will be left alone, which we already know he doesn’t like. Dogs pick up on our emotions. Your dog will end up feeling anxious himself, and that may aggravate a barking or behavioral problem. Make an effort to avoid paying attention to your dog when you are getting ready to leave. Do not pet the dog or, worse yet, engage in that baby talk that most of us tend to do when we are afraid our pups will be upset or afraid. Go about your business like you normally would. Just before you leave, gather a few of your dog’s favorite toys or treats and place them in a room away from the door. Then quietly leave without speaking to your dog. I know, I have a hard time with this one myself. This way, though, your dog will not be upset by changes in your behavior, and will accept the fact you are gone and stay relaxed and quiet.

If your dog barks excessively when someone comes to the door, walks down the sidewalk, brings the mail, etc., we need to address those behaviors as well. Some people close the blinds so the dog cannot see the mailman when he brings the mail, or the kids playing in the street. If possible, keep your dog in a room that is not near the street. Put empty boxes or something similar on the chair or couch to keep your dog from jumping up there and looking out the window. If your dog goes bananas about anything outside while you are home, try different distraction techniques. Try to direct your dog’s attention away from whatever is triggering his barking. If you can use the “quiet” command, that’s great. Often that will not work in this situation because the dog’s adrenaline is up and he tends to ignore the more subtle commands. Anything to break his attention will help. I have heard of filling a can with rocks, and shaking it to make a loud noise when your dog starts his barking fit. I personally keep a spray bottle filled with water in my living room. If they start up at something outside, or each other, I squirt them in the nose with water and say “no” firmly. That is usually enough to put an end to it, as they don’t care much for being squirted with water. It is unpleasant for them, but does not hurt them in any way.

There are a number of products available that promise to put an end to unwanted barking behavior. There are ultrasonic collars or devices that emit a sound that is unpleasant to dogs when it detects barking. I have used some of these sound-activated collars in the past with mixed results. One of my female goldens hated the high-pitched sound the collar made when she barked (and she barked a lot). As soon as the collar made the sound, she would stop barking and try to run and hide from the noise…usually in the bathroom. I felt a little mean doing that, but it did have the desired effect. It stopped her excessive barking. Other than being unpleasant to her ears, it was not harmful to her and did not require any negative attention from me.

One of my other dogs, however, didn’t seem to care either way about the tone the collar made. Once his adrenaline was up, it didn’t phase him at all. Some dogs, like Sam for example, are very reactive and territorial. Once that adrenaline level is up, not much will get their attention. The squirt bottle of water seems to work better than anything with him. He flat out does not like water in his face.

There are collars that emit a spritz of citronella, or some other substance that the dog does not like, that are meant to deter barking. I have not personally used any of these, but I would image it is a similar method to my squirt bottle of water.

There are collars that apply varying levels of electric shock when the dog barks. I am not a fan of these, but then again I am not a fan of any method that requires brute force or inflicts pain on an animal. As with the ultrasonic collars, once a dog’s adrenaline level is up they will often not even feel the shock. I realize that that there are extreme situations where they might be used, but I believe it should be a last resort only.

Before resorting to such a harsh method of training, have your dog examined by his vet. There are certain medical or neurological conditions that could be responsible for excessive barking in a dog. Pain or discomfort can make a dog bark, as well as cognitive issues. Older dogs can develop a form of canine senility that can lead to excessive vocalizations. If your dog is in pain, barking may make him feel better (by relieving stress and raising adrenaline), plus it is a way to get your attention. If nothing you have tried is working, it is a good idea to make sure your dog isn’t sick or trying to tell you that something is wrong.

Lastly, I will mention a practice that I find totally inhumane and just plain reprehensible. There is a surgery that can be done to “de-bark” a dog. In this procedure, the folds of tissue on either side of the dog’s larynx are removed. This leaves the dog with a raspy bark rather than a full sound bark. It does nothing to correct the behavior. It simply makes the barking quieter, sort of like a person with laryngitis. Complications to this surgery are common, and can be life threatening. Breathing difficulties, chronic pain, and higher risk of choking are often seen. A few cases have been seen where the dog eventually regained their “voice” after the surgery. This procedure does nothing to change the behavior of the dog or address any underlying problems. Just to stress….this surgery does not stop the barking…it simply makes it sound different. My personal feeling on this is that the de-barking surgery is inhumane and should be outlawed. There are efforts being made to ban this horrific procedure.

As you can see, getting your dog’s barking under control can be a long and complicated process that requires consistency and patience on your part. With a bit of homework, effort, and behavior modifications on the part of your dog, AND you….the problem can be solved. The results are a quieter household and a better relationship with your pet. Don’t give up!

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