Wednesday, August 29, 2012
Tuesday, August 21, 2012
Dog Hoarding: When Do You Cross the Line?
by Maria Goodavage
Five? 10? 20? 100? You can't tell a hoarder by the number of dogs -- or can you?
You love your dog, so you get another to keep her company. And then you find a stray and you have to take him home. Then you see this irresistible dog who needs a place to bunk down, so naturally he becomes part of your household. Another dog comes into your life, and you can’t say no. You love them all, and give them a good home, so occasionally people just dump a dog on you.
Your canine brood grows. It gets a little crowded, but you’re okay. You know you have more dogs than most people, but you can handle it, and the dogs need you. At some point, you might get strange looks. Then someone may refer to you by the "H" word: Hoarder.
Wait! What? You can’t be a hoarder. You love your pets, and you don’t have hundreds, or even dozens, or all that many compared to those stories you read. But some people still look at you askance, as if they’re saying, "There goes that crazy dog lady!" And you might start wondering just where the line is drawn between hoarding and just having a larger-than-normal number of pets. Is it a certain state of mind coupled with certain actions, or is there a magic number? Are you defined as not a hoarder at X number of dogs, but once you pass that, you tip the scales into lightweight hoarding?
Of course, there is no simple equation. It’s about much more than numbers. There are many theories about what makes someone a dog hoarder (here's a good article about pet hoarding/collecting), but there’s no clearly defined number cutoff. If someone with X dogs cares for his dogs but isn’t keeping them in ideal conditions, how does the law differentiate between him and someone with X+1 (or more) dogs who are given the best care the owner knows how to give?
I started thinking about this question when I read about two Pennsylvania brothers who pleaded guilty to animal cruelty after nearly 200 dogs, mostly Chihuahuas, were discovered in their house. Like most other hoarders, they truly loved the animals and thought they were doing what was best for them. According to the Philadelphia Inquirer, it was hard for the brothers to enter the guilty plea. They said they “treated the dogs like our boys and girls.”
What set these men apart from many hoarders was the condition of the dogs in general. Unlike what’s found in many hoarding cases, most of the dogs were in decent shape. “Veterinarians who checked the Chihuahuas -- plus two other dogs that were also removed from the residence -- found no serious health issues, only minor eye, teeth and skin problems, and officials say they apparently came from a loving home,” the article said.
Yes, authorities found the bodies of 30 dogs in the freezer, but they’d died of natural causes. (Not being able to part with the bodies of deceased pets is another of the characteristics of many hoarders.) Unlike the case of Rosie, the severely deformed Chihuahua we’ve been writing about since her rescue from a hoarder in June, there were apparently no calamitous deformities from inbreeding issues in this household.
The brothers' situation is a classic hoarding case, perhaps minus the decent physical conditions of the dogs. But where did they stop becoming simply super-caring dog lovers taking in their share of dogs to becoming hoarders? Again, before I get accused of oversimplifying things, I realize that hoarding/collecting animals is a very complex psychological issue; it’s anything but clear-cut.
At one point, fellow author and Dogster writer Julia Szabo had five large dogs living in her small NYC apartment. She’s down to four, but it seems people still talk.
"While most people say nice things about how kind I am to rescue, and how healthy and happy and well-socialized my dogs are, etc., a few (mostly anonymously, online) have accused me of being a hoarder," Julia wrote me. "These lovely folks call themselves 'true animal lovers,' and such. To which I say, if y'all were such true animal lovers, maybe you'd have ONE dog each, so I wouldn't have to have four or five?"
Her dogs are all rescues, and generally sleep in her bed –- yes, the non-kingsize bed you see above. If Julia lived in a big country home, no one would ever consider her a hoarder. But that fact that she’s a single gal living in a small one-bedroom apartment in New York City with four big pooches tips the scales for some people.
If you saw her apartment, you would shake your head at those who hurl around the H word so easily. It is neat. It is lovely. Yes, it may have more doggy doodads than the average NYC apartment, but it's definitely not the abode of a hoarder. My one-dog, one-child house should be so well organized.
Years ago I knew a woman in my San Francisco neighborhood. She had somehow accumulated about 10 dogs through her rescue efforts and failed foster attempts. Her yard was kind of stinky, and in her house you were lucky not to trip on Kongs and tennis balls and rawhide bones. But it wasn’t unhealthy, just slightly cluttered with dog toys –- and dogs. Her landlord (yes, she was a renter) was getting pretty balky about all those critters, and she was way over the city’s dog limit. I remember clearly when she told me she was going to move to Montana to live on a few acres she was buying with her partner. “We can keep the dogs, but no more of them. I’m not a hoarder, at least I don’t think so, but I was beginning to worry.” Read More......
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Tuesday, August 14, 2012
What Parents Should Know About Pets
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Tuesday, June 26, 2012
5 Rules for Finding a Pet Friendly Nanny
When parents begin their nanny search one of the things they should take into consideration is if they have or plan to have a family pet. Whether it is due to allergies or a fear that they’ll have to care for the family pet, for some nannies working in a home with a pet is simply out of the question.
If you’re considering hiring a nanny and have a family pet, you’ll want to be sure to find a nanny that’s comfortable around animals and willing to provide any necessary pet care. To attract a pet friendly nanny, follow these five rules:
Rule #1. Give full disclosure. Be upfront about having a pet and being an animal loving family. Whether creating your profile online or when working with an agency, be sure to include information about your pet in your family’s description. Even if you don’t expect your nanny to provide any care for your family pet, if she has a severe allergy to dogs or cats and you have one it could be an employment deal breaker.
Rule #2. Advertise for a pet loving nanny. When you describe your ideal nanny candidate, include a nanny that enjoys being around animals. When you do, you’ll naturally attract nannies who enjoy being around pets.
Rule #3. Be clear about the pet responsibilities your nanny would have. If you expect your nanny to walk or feed the family dog, communicate that from the get go. If part of her job would be taking the pet to routine vet visits, be sure to discuss it upfront. While opening the screen door to let a dog out may not be a big deal to you, to a nanny who has an allergy to dogs or a general dislike of them it’s not going to be something she wants to do.
Rule #4. Be willing to hire a dog walker or pet care provider and make that clear in your family profile. Dogs with lots of energy and young children with equal amounts of energy don’t always mix. If a nanny candidate is aware you’re willing to outsource the pet duties, a pet may be a non-issue. If you love a nanny who doesn’t really love dogs, hiring a dog walker or taking the dog to doggie daycare may be your only chance of securing her.
Rule #5. Compensate your nanny if she agrees to take on any pet duties. When discussing compensation be sure to include what you’re offering to take care of the family pet in addition to her nanny salary. Showing your nanny that you appreciate her going above and beyond the call of duty will go a long way in helping her to feel valued and respected.
If you’ve hired a nanny and then decide you want to get a family pet, it’s important to discuss the idea with your nanny first. If you decide you’d like to get a puppy, for example, the reality is that your nanny is going to be spending the majority of time with the puppy, unless you make alternative arrangements. If she’s not willing to train the puppy with you and give the puppy the care it needs, getting a new pet will be problematic.
While there are many nannies that love working in homes with pets, there are some that do not. If you have or are planning on getting a family pet, being upfront about it will ensure that the nannies you meet would enjoy working in a home where a pet was a valued member of the family.
by Maureen Denard
Find a Nanny.net Read More......
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Thursday, May 24, 2012
Chewing: The Whys and Hows of Stopping a Gnawing Problem
Why dogs chew
Puppies, like infants and toddlers, explore their world by putting objects in their mouths. And, like babies, they teethe for about 6 months, which usually creates some discomfort. Chewing not only facilitates teething, but also makes sore gums feel better.Adult dogs may engage in destructive chewing for any number of reasons. In order to deal with the behavior, you must first determine why your dog is chewing—and remember, he's not doing it to spite you. Possible reasons for destructive chewing include:
Manage the situation
Take responsibility for your own belongings. If you don't want it in your dog's mouth, don't make it available. Keep clothing, shoes, books, trash, eyeglasses, and remote control devices out of your dog's reach.Give your dog toys that are clearly distinguishable from household goods. Don't confuse him by offering shoes and socks as toys and then expecting him to distinguish between his shoe and yours.
Supervise your dog until he learns the house rules. Keep him with you on his leash in the house so he can't make a mistake out of your sight. Confine him when you're unable to keep an eye on him. Choose a "safe place" that's dog-proof, and provide fresh water and "safe" toys. If your dog is crate trained, you may also place him in his crate for short periods of time.
Give your dog plenty of people-time. Your dog won't know how to behave if you don't teach him alternatives to inappropriate behavior, and he can't learn these when he's in the yard by himself.
Give your dog plenty of physical and mental exercise. If your dog is bored, he'll find something to do to amuse himself and you probably won't like the choices he makes. On the other hand, a tired dog is a good dog, so make sure he gets lots of physical and mental activity. The amount of exercise should be based on his age, health, and breed characteristics.
If you catch your dog chewing on something he shouldn't, interrupt the behavior with a loud noise. Offer him an acceptable chew toy instead, and praise him lavishly when he takes the toy in his mouth.
Build a toy obsession in your dog. Use his toys to feed him. At mealtimes, fill a Kong-type toy with his kibble.
If your puppy is teething, try freezing a wet washcloth for him to chew on. The cold cloth will sooth his gums. Supervise your puppy so he doesn't chew up and swallow any pieces of the washcloth.
Make items unpleasant to your dog. Furniture and other items can be coated with a taste deterrent (such as Bitter Apple®) to make them unappealing.
Caution! Supervise your dog when you first try one of these deterrents. Some dogs will chew an object even if it's coated with a taste deterrent. Also be aware that you must reapply some of these deterrents to maintain their effectiveness.
Offer your dog a treat in exchange for the item in his mouth. As your dog catches on to this idea, you can add the command "Give" as his cue to release the object in exchange for the yummy treat.
Don't chase your dog if he grabs an object and runs. If you chase him, you are only giving your dog what he wants. Being chased by his human is fun! Instead call him to you or offer him a treat.
Have realistic expectations. At some point your dog will inevitably chew up something you value; this is often part of the transition to a new home. Your dog needs time to learn the house rules and you need to remember to take precautions and keep things out of his reach.
What not to do
Never discipline or punish your dog after the fact. If you discover a chewed item even minutes after he's chewed it, you're too late.Animals associate punishment with what they're doing at the time they're being corrected. Your dog can't reason that, "I tore up those shoes an hour ago and that's why I'm being scolded now." Some people believe this is what a dog is thinking because he runs and hides or because he "looks guilty."
In reality, "guilty looks" are actually canine submissive postures that dogs show when they're threatened. When you're angry and upset, your dog feels threatened by your tone of voice, body postures, and/or facial expressions, so he may hide or show submissive postures. Punishment after the fact will not only fail to eliminate the undesirable behavior, but could provoke other undesirable behaviors as well.
There is a really great site called Dogstruction.com that has wonderful and humorous pictures of dogs and the damage they have inflicted. Think your dog is bad? Check out some of these!
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Saturday, May 19, 2012
How To Switch To The Raw Food Diet For Dogs Who Are Picky Eaters
To get some dogs to switch to a
raw food diet will challenge your creativity. But you know you
need to persevere because it’s for the good of your dog.
Fortunately, there are some tips out there that will help you
help your dog adjust to this new and healthier diet.
Here are 7 tips from Maggie Rhines' “Going Rawr! Dog Lover's Compendium” to help you encourage your pick eater onto raw
food:
1. Adjust your feeding schedule.
Some dogs are more open to trying new food when they are on a
set feeding schedule. Other than being used to being fed and
eating at a certain time, you are also certain that they are
hungry by the time you give them food.
Another way to improve your dog’s reception of raw food is to
schedule his feeding after a vigorous routine activity – say
after his morning walk or a jog around the block. A good run
will help him work up an appetite.
2. Regulate how much food your dog is getting.
If your problem is getting your dog to finish his serving of
food, you may want to re-examine how much food you are actually
giving him. It may be too much for him to consume.
One way to help your dog finish his food and finish it quickly
is to set a certain amount of time for him to eat. Say you only
give him 20 minutes to finish his food. After that, take away
his food bowl. That way, he’ll be encouraged to eat his food
and to finish it quickly.
Another reason why you want to do this is because with a raw
food diet, you don’t want to leave food lying around. This
will allow bacteria to grow on your dog’s food, which could
cause stomach upset when your dog consumes the contaminated
food.
3. Lay off on the treats
If your dog is often disinterested in his food, it could be
time to examine what food your dog is getting outside of his
meals. Does he get to eat when he comes to you while you are
preparing his food? What about when the family sits down for
dinner, does he get a bite as well?
Treats are meant to be rewards for good behavior and should not
be something you routinely give your pet every time. That will
turn treats into snacks, which will only spoil your dog’s
appetite during meal time. So if your dog seems full during
meal times, check if unscheduled snacking could be to blame.
4. Variety is the spice of life
When feeding your dog raw food, variety is key to keeping him
interested. If you are feeding him the same kind of food all
the time, it won’t be a surprise if there comes a time when
he’s just not that interested in the same old thing.
Planning a varied meal doesn’t have to be complicated. You
can rotate his meals every 3 days. Serve different kinds of
meat or different kinds of fruits and vegetables to keep him
excited during meal times.
5. Make it fun
Just like with little kids, sometimes dogs need a little
stimulation to encourage them to try and to eat new food. You
can experiment with various activities and different kinds of
toys that dispense food. Or you can take his food (for example,
raw meaty bones or whole carcasses) and dangle it a bit in
front of him. That could work to get his attention to try the
new food.
6. Maybe he’s not feeling well
When you’ve tried different methods and your dog is still not
eating, it could be a sign that your dog is not feeling well.
If his lack of appetite is accompanied by a general lack of
interest in any activity, you would do well to have him checked
by a vet.
7. Do the slow switch method
Some dogs just need more time to adjust to raw food diet
especially after being so used to a different type of food for
a long time. To facilitate his adjustment, you might want to
consider doing the slow switch method. What you do is you mix
his old diet with the new diet, gradually increasing the
proportion of the new diet, until such time when you are
feeding him just raw food. This will allow him to acquire a
taste for raw food at a less stressful pace.
Introducing the raw food diet to your dog isn’t always as
easy as just giving him raw meaty bones to munch on. There are
a lot of things to consider, especially if your dog is the
sensitive/picky eater type.
A good resource to check out though would be Maggie Rhines’ “Going Rawr! Dog Lover's Compendium”. If you have a dog or
a puppy that you want to raise on a raw food diet, her expert
tips and guidance will go a long way in helping you make the
transition as easy and as pleasant as possible for both you and
your pet!
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